You've probably noticed more and more "shot" products popping up with spicules in the ingredient list lately—and if you've ever paused and wondered, "wait, what exactly is a spicule, and is this actually safe to put on my skin?", you're definitely not the only one. The name alone sounds a little intimidating, so let's break down what's actually going on.
Here's the good news: spicules aren't a synthetic or harmful additive like microplastics. They're naturally derived from freshwater sponges harvested from clean, pristine waters, which is why you'll often see them listed on ingredient labels as "Hydrolyzed Sponge" rather than "spicule." Structurally, these microscopic, needle-like particles create temporary micro-channels on the skin's surface when applied, allowing active ingredients to bypass the skin's natural barrier and reach deeper layers—rather than sitting on top and never fully absorbing.
This matters most for high-potency actives like retinal, where absorption efficiency can make the difference between visible anti-aging results and a product that mostly just moisturizes. Because the effect is temporary and skin naturally resets its barrier, spicule treatments are typically used a few times a week as a pre-treatment step in your night time skincare routine—prepping skin so that whatever comes next, whether targeting wrinkles, fine lines, or hyperpigmentation, can penetrate more effectively. As with any barrier-opening step, always follow with SPF the next morning, since freshly opened channels can mean added sun sensitivity.
Ready to try it for yourself? KSECRET's SEOUL 1988 Active Shot, formulated with Retinal Liposome 12% and Black Rice, is designed to deliver concentrated retinal deep into skin for a more intensive treatment moment.